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Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are organic acids found naturally in plants or sour milk, that may also be produced synthetically for use in cosmetics applications. They are widely known for their ability to improve the appearance and texture of aging skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and scarring. Topically applied AHAs work on both the dermis and epidermis to improve skin health and appearance. On the surface, AHAs help dissolve the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together, encouraging epidermal skin cell sloughing and reducing hyperkeratinization. In the dermis, AHAs effectively reduce the signs of photoaging by improving the quality of elastin fibers, increasing collagen density, and increasing dermal thickness. AHAs also make skin more receptive to moisturization from topically applied products. Because their small molecular size allows for increased skin penetration, glycolic and lactic acids are the most effective and commonly used AHAs. Other AHAs used in skin care formulations include malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.

REFERENCES:
Bernstein EF, Lee J, Brown DB, et al. Glycolic acid treatment increases type I collagen mRNA and hyaluronic acid content of human skin. Dermatological Surgery 2001; 27(5): 429-433.

Ditre CM, Griffin TD, Murphey GF, et al. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histological, and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol 1996; 34(2): 187-195.

Thibault PK, Wlodarczyk J, Wenk A, Kakita L. A double-blind randomized clinical trial of the effectiveness of a daily glycolic acid 5% formulation in the treatment of photoaging. Dermatological Surgery 1998; 24(5): 573-578.


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